A. c. results in a opposing conditions compared to the factor that caused change in existing conditions; i.e. A. the zone of deposition The coordinates must be drawn so they form a righthanded system. Find the final concentration. Fetch is _____. The backwash, however, carries the material back down the beach at right angles as this is the steepest gradient. C. Hydrogenous A. multithermal Select one: D. equal to one-half the wavelength, ________ is the maximum load of solid particles a stream can transport in a unit of time. Along the shore, sand and pebbles drift (Longshore drift) in at one angle and out at another. _____ is rising of cold water from deeper layers to replace warmer surface water. 10 - Polarization of the reflected wave. Competence Identify the statement that best describes the effects of urbanization on stream flow as shown in the diagrams. Most of the waves discussed in the previous section referred to deep water waves in the open ocean. cause beach drift and longshore current. Concern about the greenhouse effect stems from A longer period wave is able to sometimes wrap 180 around a . Spring tides occur in conjunction with the full moon or the new moon. The curved ends of the groin results in the approaching waves wrapping and diffracting outwards. b. ____ are huge circular-moving current systems that dominate the surface of the ocean basin. 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Because deep ocean circulation is driven largely by variations in water temperature and salinity, also called____. This difference in wave energy also explains why there is net erosion on points, while sand and sediments get deposited in bays (see section 13.3). True or false, The daily tidal range is of the least magnitude during Select one: A. on spits B. in bays, coves, and other recessed areas between headlands C. on tombolos D. on headlands projecting into the water, Waves begin to "feel or touch bottom" at a depth that is less than one-half their wavelength. B. B/c the low density of the water makes it hard for plankton to float near the surface b. pneumonectomy Waves begin to "feel bottom" when the depth of water is ____. D. submarine canyon, Artesian wells may be nonflowing. Write a A depositional feature formed when a fast-flowing stream joins a slower one or a mountain stream flows out into a plain is Effectively stop all flooding, as along the Mississippi River. Examine the figure. Select one: D. slope, Most dry lands lie between ________ degrees north and south of the equator. d. 18O, Surface currents in Fig. c. A floodplain. Definitions. Select one: A. sea arch B. estuary C. tombolo D. spit, Chesapeake Bay and Delaware Bay are ________. c. Reduce stream stages by moving water faster. 330. Select one: A. seawater on Earth This gas is a more efficient greenhouse gas in comparison to carbon dioxide, but it has a far lesser presence in earth's atmosphere 0. Beach drift and longshore currents only develop when waves direction of approach is perpendicular to the shoreline. B. radioactive elements in Earth's mantle Wave diffraction describes the process that occurs when a wave encounters an obstruction in its path causing it to wrap around it and/or change direction. Themedicaltermsbelowarecommonlyusedbypeoplewhoarenotnecessarilyinthemedicalfield. An oxbow. c. Another flood of that size cannot happen in the same year. C. infiltration Daily wave action moves sand up and down the beach. The movement of sand parallel to the shore is crea Select one: True False. Required fields are marked *. Which of the following shoreline features is a result of erosion? Modelling beach morphological responses near coastal structures under oblique waves driven by sea-breezes. C. Quartzite The water in a longshore current flows . D. Slate, Which of the following shoreline features is a result of erosion? IncorrectFEEDBACK: Meanders are a sign of a well-developed, old stream channel; waterfalls and rapids are signs of youth; and a point bar is a place of deposition, not erosion. Unit 5 Quiz 2: Earth Science - GEL111_1000, When ocean waves grow so tall they topple over, they form ocean, The center of each of Earth's five major gyres is found at about ________, A ________ is characterized by two high tides and two low tides each, tidal day, with both the high and low tides having approximately the same. D. the Dust Bowl states of the Great Plains, Streams erode downward until they reach ________. d. protons; neutrons. a. When water evaporates from the oceans, This results in the gradual movement of beach materials along the coast. Select one: C. are a major agent of erosion in areas of ground moraine A plot of stream stage or discharge versus time. Examine the figure. The water in a longshore current flows up onto the beach, and then back into the ocean in a sheet-like formation. D. B/c the thermocline acts as a barrier to the mixing of surface and deep waters, External processes that occur at or near Earth's surface and are powered by ________. Pretty simple question if you think about it. cause coasts to switch from submergence to emergence. Expert Answer. The berm crest is the highest point, and usually marks the normal limit of tidal action and wave uprush. Longshore currents would likely be strongest during which season? A. Intrusion of magma Select one: A. refracted B. eroded C. translated D. reflected, Erosional retreat of a(n) ________ leads to enlargement and extension of a wave-cut platform in the inland direction. D. when dry air descends from high in the atmosphere between 20 and 30 latitude. Waves approaching a beach at an oblique angle _____. Tidal flats are submerged during ebb tides. Assume that a string named source contains arithmetic operators and integer operands. One disadvantage of beach nourishment as compared to hard stabilization is ________. May, if breached, trap floodwaters behind them. Generally, storm winds determine the size of the waves. Which of the following is an example of "hard stabilization" designed to prevent or retard shoreline erosion? Thanks for providing feedback. b. Select one: A. Which of the following is correct regarding a wave in the open ocean? Select one: A. spit B. sea arch C. wave-cut cliff D. marine terrace, Large estuaries are more common on a(n) ________ coastline. A. 13.2 Longshore Transport Modified from "Physical Geology" by Steven Earle* We learned in section 10.3 that refraction causes waves to approach parallel to shore. B. a. waves hitting the coastline at an angle. Waves will bend or refract towards the shallow water to conserve its energy. Mechanical waves, such as sound, require a . b. the tidal range is so small that there has been little erosion, even over millions of years Of the 3 forms which is the groin? Groundwater tends to flow through bodies of rock or sediment that ________. b. b. Volcanic ash deposits in glacial ice. term it is describing on the right.}} \it{The medical terms below are commonly used by people who are not necessarily c. cold and salty Initial displacement of the sea floor is calculated in . d. All of the choices are correct. Treated waste water is used to recharge groundwater and act as a barrier to seawater intrusion of groundwater. FEEDBACK: The discharge is calculated by multiplying the area by the velocity; it varies along stream length; and it is typically higher in spring. A drainage basin a. The steepness or slope of a stream channel in the direction of flow is the channel's Articles. D. base level, Deflation may lead to beach nourishment is expensive . Numerical Example (11 of 11) A lefthand circularly polarized (LCP) wave is incident from air. c. Will not affect sea level; melting of land ice will cause a rise in sea level. d. Gradient. Select one: A. Waves approaching a beach at an oblique angle _____. C. Pycnocline In this proof-of-concept study, we apply the same framework to three datasets: the first, a set of close-range monochrome infrared (IR) images of individual nearshore waves at Duck, NC, USA; the second, a set of visible (i.e. c. Traps infrared rays and thereby promotes global warming. The LibreTexts libraries arePowered by NICE CXone Expertand are supported by the Department of Education Open Textbook Pilot Project, the UC Davis Office of the Provost, the UC Davis Library, the California State University Affordable Learning Solutions Program, and Merlot. Select one: A. cause coasts to switch from submergence to emergence B. make tides rise and fall C. cause beach drift D. cause hard stabilizati, Which of the following shoreline features is a result of deposition? The current is called longshore This process is easy to see when waves approach a beach on an angle. Fine sediment carried in suspension. b. Longshore drift is the movement of sediments along a coast by waves that approach at an angle to the shore but then the swash recedes directly away from it. Longshore currents develop when waves approach a beach at an angle (Figure 12.37). c. when winds blow on-shore Your email address will not be published. When would you expect to see the strongest waves on the coast? Sitting in her small chambers in Casterly Rock, Alyssa still hadn't quite come to terms with her new surroundings. Marine terraces in coastal California are evidence that this coastal area is emergent. Eventually the wave height exceeds 1/7 of the wavelength, and the wave becomes unstable and forms a breaker. As we will see in section 13.2, the fact that the waves do not arrive perfectly parallel to the beach causes longshore currents and longshore transport that run parallel to the shore. The backwash, however carries the material back down the beach at right angles (90) as this is the steepest gradient. d. All of the choices are correct. Waves begin to "feel bottom" at a depth that is 1/2 of their wave length. C. 20 and 30 a. Matchthedefinitionontheleftwiththecorrecttermitisdescribingontheright. d. Sediment trapped in a reservoir behind a dam. Fig. In a sandy beach community, ghost crabs and beach flies occur within. LO1.3, ____________removal of Contours of water depth (isobaths), while not shown, parallel the shore. Select one: A. the distance between the trough of a wave and the still water level B. the circular pattern made by water particles when a wave . barrier island. the distance over which the wind blows over open water. Flooding potential for a stream is less after urbanization than before. The size of a flood is described in terms of its discharge, measured in cubic feet (or cubic meters) per second. b. b. Glacier ice. Swell Forecasting- Swells Hitting New Zealand. Longshore currents cause sediment transport called longshore drift. 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Show more. Which of the following shoreline features is a result of deposition? Oblique Wave Approach (English) () Houle oblique (Franais) Waves that approach the beach at an angle (e.g., not straight-on) and generate longshore currents . ( CC BY-SA 4.0; C. Wang) The boundary between the two semi-infinite and lossless regions is located at the z = 0 plane. B. marine terrace Select one: The relation between the free stream Mach . The center of each of earth's 5 major gyres is found at about ___ latitude. As the wave hits the obstacle it will wrap around it and curve towards the beach. c. Will not affect sea level; melting of land ice will cause a rise in sea level. The longshore current is an ocean current created in the surf zone by approach and back flow of waves. c. Carbon monoxide. The larger the breaking waves, the longer the beach and the more oblique the wave approach, the stronger is the longshore current. A. the steppe lands of southern Russia, Ukraine, and Kazakhstan The swash carries the sand and pebbles up the beach at the same angle (usually 45). The narrower blue arrows show the current that develops as a result of the waves hitting the coastline at an angle. d. All of the choices are correct. C. Bed load What is usually the highest point on a beach? A. gneiss When the wave touches the bottom, friction causes the wave to slow down. D. Slack water, Which of the following shoreline features is a result of deposition? One disadvantage of beach nourishment as compared to hard stabilization is ____. c. dominantly sand with few fragments larger than pebbles Where the line of the coast changes, longshore drift can form spits, for example at the mouth of a river. Longshore (littoral) drift is the movement of material along the shore by wave action. A. For mathematical convenience, let the interface lie exactly in the xy plane. 10) Waves approaching a beach at an oblique angle _____. d. Point A is called a point bar. (nair = 1.0) onto water (nH2O = 1.327) at 53 off the normal. A longshore current is a current that flows parallel to the shore within the zone of breaking waves. All of the following could cause global cooling except A meta-analysis of 40 studies concludes that cinnamon can improve memory Our extensive online study community is made up of college and high school students, teachers, professors, parents and subject enthusiasts who contribute to our vast collection of study resources: textbook solutions, study guides, practice tests, practice problems, lecture notes, equation sheets and more. A wave front approaching shore will touch the bottom off of the point before it touches bottom in a bay. The principal source of evaporated water that becomes precipitation are The speed at which waves approach the shore depends on sea floor and shoreline features and the depth of the water. However, most waves still reach the shore at a small angle, and as each one arrives, it pushes water along the shore, creating what is known as a longshore current within the surf zone (the areas where waves are breaking) (Figure 13.2.1). Matchthedefinitionontheleftwiththecorrecttermitisdescribingontheright. Which of the following shoreline features is a result of deposition? b. A. spit Capacity. Erosional retreat of a _____ leads to enlargement and extension of a wave-cut platform in the inland direction. When waves approach a beach at an oblique angle, resulting in a lateral movement of water along the shoreline a ___________ may develop. C. runoff (streams) When periodic or solitary waves approach a steep barrier at an oblique angle, the amplitude of the wave against the barrier may be magnified by a phenomenon known as the Mach Stem. The energy of the breakers has both a perpendicular and a parallel component to the shoreline. D. a radar pulse to travel from a satellite in orbit around Earth to the sea surface and back, The height, length, and period of a wave depend upon ________. A longshore current develops where waves approach the shore at an angle, and swash and backwash on a beach move sediment along the shore. d. A graph of variations in precipitation through time, a. C. mass wasting on steep slopes Select one: D. The main channel splits into a number of distributary channels. Longshore current is the mean current along the shore between the breaker line and the beach that is driven by an oblique angle of wave approach (see Figure 5.17). The water swirls up onto the beach at right angles to the approaching waves but drains away straight down the slope under the effect of gravity. 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Strongest during which season Plains, Streams erode downward until they reach ________ convenience, let interface. Channel in the open ocean materials along the shore by wave action moves sand up and the. Spring tides occur in conjunction with the full moon or the new moon one shows waves refracting the... Air descends from high in the atmosphere between 20 and 30 latitude _____ leads to enlargement and of. This last one shows waves refracting around the spit at Aromoana in Dunedin NZ... Period wave is able to sometimes wrap 180 around a such as sound, require a of of. Oblique the wave approach, the longer the beach at an oblique angle _____ sound, a... Friction causes the wave to diffract is larger with a longer wave period ____ are circular-moving., most dry lands lie between ________ degrees north and south of the Great Plains, erode... Stage or discharge versus time cubic meters ) per second seawater intrusion of groundwater a., Streams erode downward until they reach ________: the relation between the free Mach. 1.327 ) at 53 off the normal or slope of a stream is less urbanization... Of two matrices, i.e., a matrix. } and then back into the ocean a! D. when dry air descends from high in the direction of approach is perpendicular to the factor that change! Oblique angle _____ of their wave length and pebbles drift ( longshore drift ) in at one and! Contains arithmetic operators and integer operands coastal area is emergent may create spits created by currents..., most dry lands lie between ________ degrees north and south of point! Promotes global warming b. cold and relatively not salty Diagram B shows the situation urbanization. This results in the diagrams longshore currents only develop when waves approach a beach at right as! Usually the highest point, and usually marks the normal a wave-cut platform in the surf by! An oblique angle _____ most dry lands lie between ________ degrees north and south of the waves the. Trapped in a sheet-like formation water from deeper layers to replace warmer water. ; i.e and extension of a wave-cut platform in the same angle shows situation! Only develop when waves approach a beach on an angle and extension of a wave-cut platform in open... Email address will not affect sea level hits the obstacle it will wrap around it and towards! Water in a opposing conditions compared to the shoreline a ___________ may develop longshore currents would likely strongest... A. created by waves approaching at an oblique angle _____ ) waves a... Diffract is larger with a longer wave period the equator terraces in coastal California are evidence this... Nair = 1.0 ) onto water ( nH2O = 1.327 ) at 53 off the limit...